Wednesday, December 27, 2006
November 2006 - More Day 7 Photos
I'm posting a few more photos from Santiago. All future pictures from this point on were taken with the film camera and have to be scanned and transferred to the laptop I use for blogging. The process is a little cumbersome, so I was very grateful to have the(other)eb help me out. Here's two more of the marine iguanas. The second one shows a lava lizard basking on an iguana basking on lava.
November 2006 - The Galapagos: Day 7 Santiago
Our day on Santiago or James Island seemed to start out much better. Everyone was feeling better and our morning walk with the marine iguanas was great. The landscape here is different with lava flows that have collapsed and left “bridges” and blowholes under which the waves flow.
We were also introduced to our first Galapagos Fur Seal. They are smaller than the sea lions. I wouldn’t have been able to tell them apart on my own, but when you see both together they are very different.
Our snorkel this morning started out promising as well. We saw an amazing Octopus with a head about a foot wide. After that we were following a sea turtle until Eric suddenly motioned for me to come up out of the water. The look on his face and the angry button-pushing on the camera told me everything I needed to know… salt water and electronics don’t mix well. When I had put the digital camera into it’s underwater case, I guess I didn’t close the seal properly and it leaked. Yes, I admit it – I killed the camera. This put a damper on the rest of the morning as we tried to dry it out with no luck.
On the bright side, we were able to put the memory card into another passenger’s camera and confirm that it still worked and none of the previous photos were lost. However, there would be no more underwater pictures and we’d have to rely on the film camera for the rest of the trip.
Theebs travel lessons learned: 1) have someone else check the camera case before you plunge into the water. 2) bring at least 2 cameras – one digital, one film. 3) you can buy a good used digital camera (just like the one you had) on eBay when you get back home.
Putting that aside, we went for a second snorkel near a formation called Pinnacle Rock. This one had amazing parrotfish, sea stars, angelfish, butterflyfish, triggerfish, and a pacific boxfish. You won’t be seeing any pictures of them here.
After the swim, we hiked up 300 stairs to the top of Bartholome, which provided a great view of Pinnacle Rock. If you’ve seen the movie “Master and Commander,” there is a great scene where Stephen (the doctor) looks up from a beetle and sees the French ship, the Acheron. This is the spot where it was filmed and it’s breathtaking.
We were also introduced to our first Galapagos Fur Seal. They are smaller than the sea lions. I wouldn’t have been able to tell them apart on my own, but when you see both together they are very different.
Our snorkel this morning started out promising as well. We saw an amazing Octopus with a head about a foot wide. After that we were following a sea turtle until Eric suddenly motioned for me to come up out of the water. The look on his face and the angry button-pushing on the camera told me everything I needed to know… salt water and electronics don’t mix well. When I had put the digital camera into it’s underwater case, I guess I didn’t close the seal properly and it leaked. Yes, I admit it – I killed the camera. This put a damper on the rest of the morning as we tried to dry it out with no luck.
On the bright side, we were able to put the memory card into another passenger’s camera and confirm that it still worked and none of the previous photos were lost. However, there would be no more underwater pictures and we’d have to rely on the film camera for the rest of the trip.
Theebs travel lessons learned: 1) have someone else check the camera case before you plunge into the water. 2) bring at least 2 cameras – one digital, one film. 3) you can buy a good used digital camera (just like the one you had) on eBay when you get back home.
Putting that aside, we went for a second snorkel near a formation called Pinnacle Rock. This one had amazing parrotfish, sea stars, angelfish, butterflyfish, triggerfish, and a pacific boxfish. You won’t be seeing any pictures of them here.
After the swim, we hiked up 300 stairs to the top of Bartholome, which provided a great view of Pinnacle Rock. If you’ve seen the movie “Master and Commander,” there is a great scene where Stephen (the doctor) looks up from a beetle and sees the French ship, the Acheron. This is the spot where it was filmed and it’s breathtaking.
Tuesday, December 26, 2006
November 2006 - The Galapagos: Day 6 Fernandina and Isabella
After a long and slightly rougher trip overnight, we arrived at Punta Espinoza on Fernandina one of the western islands. Eric actually had a much rougher ride than the rest of us, as the inevitable happened. His South American experience was complete with the proverbial Montezuma’s revenge. However, it didn’t stop him from going ashore this morning - what a trooper.
The two highlights of the morning were the marine iguanas and flightless cormorants. Dozens of marine iguanas were sunning themselves on the lava flows. The males are very territorial and have a unique way of showing their dominance. They bob their heads, which makes it look like they are constantly agreeing with you. They also spit frequently to clear their noses/throats of salt from the ocean water. You don’t want to be in the way when they do this.
The flightless cormorants have small underdeveloped wings. When they hold them open to dry you can really see how short they are. The theory is that they lived on the islands without predators (and with enough food) for such a long time without a reason to fly, they lost the ability. Here's one with it's chick:
There were quite a few other interesting animals on the island: sea cucumbers, chitons, barnacles (which are actually pretty interesting when they are not attached to your boat), blue herons, American oystercatchers, penguins, and even a sea turtle that was stuck in a tide pool until the next high tide.
Blue Heron
Sea turtle
The two highlights of the morning were the marine iguanas and flightless cormorants. Dozens of marine iguanas were sunning themselves on the lava flows. The males are very territorial and have a unique way of showing their dominance. They bob their heads, which makes it look like they are constantly agreeing with you. They also spit frequently to clear their noses/throats of salt from the ocean water. You don’t want to be in the way when they do this.
The flightless cormorants have small underdeveloped wings. When they hold them open to dry you can really see how short they are. The theory is that they lived on the islands without predators (and with enough food) for such a long time without a reason to fly, they lost the ability. Here's one with it's chick:
There were quite a few other interesting animals on the island: sea cucumbers, chitons, barnacles (which are actually pretty interesting when they are not attached to your boat), blue herons, American oystercatchers, penguins, and even a sea turtle that was stuck in a tide pool until the next high tide.
Lave Lizard
Blue HeronPeguins (note that I mis-labled a picture of a penguin a few days ago, but have removed it. This one really is a peguin!)
Lava flow
In the afternoon, we kayaked and snorkeled at Isabella island. Isabella is the largest island and it made up of at least 5 large volcanos. While I typically don’t have much interested in geology, it’s much more engaging when you can actually see what a tuff cone looks like. By the end of the week we were getting good at identifying lava plugs, lava dikes, and craters.
Peguin swimming - they are really fast (trust me, it took a few tries to get a picutre of one)
Sea turtle Parrotfish
Tuff (yellow - formed from ash) and lava (black)
Integrity at Isabella
The chef made some chicken soup for Eric and by the end of the day he was feeling better. Good enough in fact for a champagne toast as we “crossed the line.” The crew counted down the seconds until our boat sailed over the equator and we were again in the northern hemisphere. (And no, there is not a big line in the water.)
Wednesday, December 20, 2006
November 2006 - The Galapagos: Day 5 Floreana
We woke up at dawn and headed ashore to Punta Cormoran on Floreana. Floreana is also known as Charles Island. We visited two very different beaches here. The first was a volcanic beach made up of green crystals call olivite. The second was a white coral beach whose sand is so fine it’s called a “flour” beach. Along the walk there were sea lions, red billed tropic birds, and sea turtle tracks (their nests are off limits). However, the most shocking animal is the pink flamingo (see below). They seem incredibly out of place, but are beautiful all the same.
Next we went snorkeling at a place called Devil’s Crown. It’s basically a circular, partially submerged lava cone. The pieces that poke up through the ocean sort of resemble a crown (sort of). This was one of the best snorkels of the trip. Aside from the critter list below, we saw Green Sea Urchins, Sgt. Majors, King Angel Fish, and Parrotfish and a sea turtle sleeping on the bottom.
Lots of tropical fish, note the yellow puffer fish on the left .
Two types of Starfish – the first one is called a chocolate chip starfish for obvious reasons.
Spotted Eagle Ray
Our first of many White Tipped Reef Sharks . Even though they are pretty ominous, they aren’t dangerous to humans (supposedly).
Sealions. For as awkward as they look on land, these guys are incredibly fast underwater. It was a little shocking the first time one swims up to you. They are also very playful. The next set of photos is of a young sea lion “playing” with a terrified Puffer Fish. He would yank on his tail for a while until the fish wriggled free. Then he would chase down the fish and drag him back. Repeat.
After snorkeling, we headed over to another landing on Floreana called Post Office Bay. In the 18th century, whalers on outbound trips would drop off letters in a barrel on this beach. Ships heading home would pick up the letters and deliver them to North America or Europe. The tradition still works today. Travelers drop off postcards and letters, as well as search through the ones already there. If you find any destined for places near your home, you take them with you and deliver them.
The family of a co-worker in London is going to be visiting the Galapagos in a few weeks, so we left them a note. I’ll let you know if they picked it up.
After lunch on the boat we went ashore on Floreana for the final time. This time it was at Black Beach, which is a town of about 100 people. The Integrity’s crew had a soccer match against the locals, but we went for a bumpy ride on the “bus” below.
We went into the highlands and saw the spring where the town’s water supply comes from. This is one of just a few islands with any fresh water. We also saw this cave that was dug out of the rock by some of the first settlers here (or maybe by pirates as the story goes).
This island was the scene of strange murder mystery in the late 1920s that involved a strange German doctor and his mistress, a family of settlers, a “baroness” and her lovers, and assorted others. It ended with at least one death by poisoning, and left several people “missing.” The story is unsolved and very intriguing. There have been a few books written about it and the descendents still live there, including one who runs a small hotel on the beach where we had dinner.
Speaking of dinner, it was a BBQ on the beach. The picture below has some of the boat’s crew making dinner (and they won their soccer game too). By this point in the trip I was learning lots of Spanish, but I realized later that they were all “food” words: Chorizo, Pollo, Pescado, Cerveza, Leche, Huevos, etc. Back on the boat we had a lesson on geology, volcanic plates and hotspots in preparation for the next day.
Next we went snorkeling at a place called Devil’s Crown. It’s basically a circular, partially submerged lava cone. The pieces that poke up through the ocean sort of resemble a crown (sort of). This was one of the best snorkels of the trip. Aside from the critter list below, we saw Green Sea Urchins, Sgt. Majors, King Angel Fish, and Parrotfish and a sea turtle sleeping on the bottom.
Lots of tropical fish, note the yellow puffer fish on the left .
Two types of Starfish – the first one is called a chocolate chip starfish for obvious reasons.
Spotted Eagle Ray
Our first of many White Tipped Reef Sharks . Even though they are pretty ominous, they aren’t dangerous to humans (supposedly).
Sealions. For as awkward as they look on land, these guys are incredibly fast underwater. It was a little shocking the first time one swims up to you. They are also very playful. The next set of photos is of a young sea lion “playing” with a terrified Puffer Fish. He would yank on his tail for a while until the fish wriggled free. Then he would chase down the fish and drag him back. Repeat.
After snorkeling, we headed over to another landing on Floreana called Post Office Bay. In the 18th century, whalers on outbound trips would drop off letters in a barrel on this beach. Ships heading home would pick up the letters and deliver them to North America or Europe. The tradition still works today. Travelers drop off postcards and letters, as well as search through the ones already there. If you find any destined for places near your home, you take them with you and deliver them.
The family of a co-worker in London is going to be visiting the Galapagos in a few weeks, so we left them a note. I’ll let you know if they picked it up.
After lunch on the boat we went ashore on Floreana for the final time. This time it was at Black Beach, which is a town of about 100 people. The Integrity’s crew had a soccer match against the locals, but we went for a bumpy ride on the “bus” below.
We went into the highlands and saw the spring where the town’s water supply comes from. This is one of just a few islands with any fresh water. We also saw this cave that was dug out of the rock by some of the first settlers here (or maybe by pirates as the story goes).
This island was the scene of strange murder mystery in the late 1920s that involved a strange German doctor and his mistress, a family of settlers, a “baroness” and her lovers, and assorted others. It ended with at least one death by poisoning, and left several people “missing.” The story is unsolved and very intriguing. There have been a few books written about it and the descendents still live there, including one who runs a small hotel on the beach where we had dinner.
Speaking of dinner, it was a BBQ on the beach. The picture below has some of the boat’s crew making dinner (and they won their soccer game too). By this point in the trip I was learning lots of Spanish, but I realized later that they were all “food” words: Chorizo, Pollo, Pescado, Cerveza, Leche, Huevos, etc. Back on the boat we had a lesson on geology, volcanic plates and hotspots in preparation for the next day.
Monday, December 18, 2006
November 2006 - More Day 4 Photos
I was about to move on to the next island, but was reminded that we have some other pictures from Espanola taken with the film camera:
Sally Lightfoot Crab
So sleepy...
Blue feet
Sally Lightfoot Crab
So sleepy...
Blue feet
Waved Albatrosses
Nazca
Next post will be something new...I promise!
Sunday, December 17, 2006
November 2006 - The Galapagos: Day 4 Espanola part 3
This post is the final installment of Espanola island. (I'm working on finding a good map of the islands to post here - stay tuned.) Late in the afternoon we went ashore at Punta Suarez and were greeted by the ubiquitous sea lions. It was also our first close-up of the marine iguanas, but this walk was all about feathers.
Just as the sun was starting to set, we finally saw the Blue Footed Booby. No one knows why their feet developed this color, and it varies from a pale sky blue to a deep “Carolina Tar Heels” blue. It’s thought to be used to attract a mate, and seems to be part of their courtship dance. Each bird slowly sticks out one blue foot to show it off, and then the other. It’s pretty comical to watch and might be the reason they got their name, which comes from “bobo” or Spanish for clown.
We said good night to the birds and headed back to the Integrity. At dinner we were formally introduced to the crew with a cocktail, and the captain joined us for dinner. Everyone was thoroughly exhausted by 9PM, and we get to do it all again the next day.
The first bird we encountered was this Galapagos Hawk. Our guide thought he was about 4 weeks old because he couldn’t fly yet. In this picture he is testing and strengthening his wings in the wind, getting himself ready for his first flight.
We found a nice spot on this cliff to sit on a rock and watch the activity. The coming and going of hundreds of boobies, albatrosses, tropic birds, frigate birds, and gulls were amazing to watch. One of the guide books we brought along says that watching birds give people a sense of freedom and happiness - after this day, I have to agree.
As we walked on, the sun began to set and we got an even closer look at some of the birds. These are Waved Albatrosses. They are huge birds that can fly over 1000km to Peru. However, they can’t take off well from land, only by launching themselves off a cliff, or in the wind along the water's surface. They do an elaborate courtship dance which consists of “fencing” with their beaks. Then one of them makes a vibrating noise with it’s beak and the other answers with a loud beak click. It’s pretty entertaining, especially because the ones we watched were fairly young and couldn’t quite get it right.
Further along the walk we saw the first of the 3 types of boobies that live in the Galapagos, the Nazca Booby (thankfully not Nazgul). They were previously called masked boobies because of the markings on their faces and many guidebooks still refer to them that way. They, like most of the birds here, build their nests on the ground because there are no natural predators for them. The introduction of a single feral cat on this island could be disastrous.
Just as the sun was starting to set, we finally saw the Blue Footed Booby. No one knows why their feet developed this color, and it varies from a pale sky blue to a deep “Carolina Tar Heels” blue. It’s thought to be used to attract a mate, and seems to be part of their courtship dance. Each bird slowly sticks out one blue foot to show it off, and then the other. It’s pretty comical to watch and might be the reason they got their name, which comes from “bobo” or Spanish for clown.
We said good night to the birds and headed back to the Integrity. At dinner we were formally introduced to the crew with a cocktail, and the captain joined us for dinner. Everyone was thoroughly exhausted by 9PM, and we get to do it all again the next day.
Saturday, December 16, 2006
November 2006 - The Galapagos: Day 4 Espanola part 2
Our day continued with a late morning snorkel Before we got to the Galapagos, I expected the snorkeling to be a side activity, but it turned out to be one of the major attractions and activities of the week. Here are a few of the sights under the sea. These photos were taken with the digital camera in a waterproof ‘clamshell’ case.
Angelfish
Angelfish
Yellow-tailed surgeonfish
Galapagos snake eel
The water was not “bathtub” warm as it is in the Caribbean, but we brought shorty wetsuits with us that were just right. After the snorkel, it was back to the Integrity for lunch and a nap before the afternoon excursion!
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